Some Observations of Bahian life and Culture — Salvador, Brazil

  Salvador, State of Bahia, Brazil
Friday, July 27, 2012

Many important aspects of Brazilian culture originated in Bahia, and Salvador played an important role in the process.  

Today we went to Pelourinho in the late afternoon to look for a hairdresser but we spent some time on an impromptu tour of the city observing some of this culture playing out.

Pelourinho in the evening has a unique atmosphere, on the edge and charged with expectation, expectation of excitement.  Africans are natural creators and wherever they gather in large numbers things happen, culture is created.      I am sure this is general knowledge because there were lots of Europeans milling around on the narrow streets, around every corner.  When we were planning our trip to Brazil and mentioned we were going to Salvador, on more than one occasion it was mentioned that the city was dangerous

.  Dangerous for who and why?   We are certainly not naive but Salvador is not more dangerous than any other large crowed city.  In fact we have found it quite easy going,  friendly and accommodating even with the limitations of language.

Samba da Roda originated in the bay area of Bahia during the 17th century when sugar was king and Africans were captive in great numbers. Samba do Roda originated from African cultures and traditions that fused on the plantations and was later transported to Rio de Janeiro with urban migration where it developed into the urban Samba that has today become a predominant symbol of Brazilian national identity.   Evening time in Pelourinho is Samba time in many venues, likewise throughout the city of Salvador.  It doesn't need special occasion; it is the living expression of enjoyment.

Capoeira is the African Martial Art that was used in the defence of the African free-states that existed in Brazil throughout most of the period of slavery.    Forced to defend against repeated attacks by Portuguese colonists, the warriors of Palmares were expert in capoeira, a martial arts form that was brought to & enhanced in Brazil by Africans circa the 16th century. 

Surviving slavery, national banning and long periods of persecution, Capoeira is today a world respected martial art that also gives Brazil a unique identity

.  Walking through Pelourinho you will see groups of Capoeiristas playing Birimbau and doing Capoeira.   In fact we noticed that public phone boxes throughout the city and made in the shape of the Burimbau.

As we waked through Pelourinho, popping in and out of shops we passed by one of the academies which practice Angola Capoeira, the original style brought from African.  There are now two main styles of capoeira,  Capoeira Angola which is the more orthodox style and regional capoeira which was developed in the 30's as a means of gaining public acceptance following the long period of banning since the abolition of slavery, and contains more explicit fighting.

We went inside and were introduced to the master and president of the association, Master Pele; he claims to have got the name Pele long before the more famous world renowned footballer, Pele.     After a brief exchange, some pictures and a tour of the academy we made and appointment to return on the following Tuesday to their regular weekly Capoeira sessions.

Candomble is the African religion that resulted from the fusion of the various African forms of worship that came together on the sugar plantations of Bahia.   Because of the aggressive attempts of the colonialists to convert everyone they came into contact with, to Catholicism, and the strong desire of the Africans to remain free and self-determining, they strategically masked their religion in the cloak of Catholicism.   Candomble is the result of the fusion of the two philosophies, a process known as syncretism.    Candomble has developed into a largely Yoruba system of religion with the Orixas being central to its philosophy and despite the Catholic influence has remained distinctly African Brazilian

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Candomble is a part of Bahian life, there are Camdomble houses all over Pelourinho, Salvador and Bahia.  Nothing important moves in Bahia without the involvement of Candomble.  The influence is so strong, that many important people of all ethnicity, in public life are either directly involved or have to pay their respects to Candomble. 

Acaraje is the food that is offered to the Orixas and it is sold openly on the streets of Salvador and is a part of its identity and daily life.  All over the city you will see Bahiana women in their cultural dresses sitting at their stalls on corners selling Acaraje.  They are usually dressed in white with additional colors to represent to Orixa who is being honored for that day of the week or to whom they are devoted.  And you will see everyone, men, women, young, old even businessmen dressed in suit and tie stopping to buy Araraje.    It was explained that selling on the corner is an extension of an African tradition of making offerings at the spot where two roads meet.

Another commom sight across the city is women selling Mingau.  Mingau is porridge and has both African and indigenous influences.  You can usually get three types of Mingau, corn, tapioca and white corn or Mungunza (similar to what we know as hominy).  Typically you will find African Brazilian or indigenous women selling Mingau.  

It is interesting to note that Acaraje and Mingau are the only things that are allowed to be sold on the street without a license, demonstrating how central and important they have become to the fabric of daily life.